Bread sushi? Why is Chef Bjorn Shen pairing raw fish with pizza dough?
So, expect to find courses like a “California roll” of crab, avocado and perilla wrapped in deep-fried dough in the style of Naples fried pizza; otoro or tuna belly tartare tossed in bulgogi dressing and served with nacho pear and chrysanthemum petals on 85 per cent hydration schiacciata; and a “chirashi” of mixed fish, scallop, tamagoyaki, pickled cucumber and uni cream on a lavosh.
It’s an homage to sushi, of course, but also a bit of an ironic visual chuckle because, well, it’s bread. And not just any bread, as these dough recipes are straight out of Small’s experiments with pizza dough.
“While we were doing pizza omakase, we found that a lot of our favourite pizzas were the ones with raw fish on them. There was a sea urchin pizza and a raw tuna pizza – things like that. I was always joking with people, ‘This is bread sushi.’” So, it was a natural next step in Small’s journey.