A fish and samphire meen curry recipe inspired by Goa | Food

March 5, 2022 by No Comments

I spent the very best part of two years as a chef in Bombay. It’s a bustling, chaotic metropolis that’s predominately vegetarian – a few of them Jain, strict vegetarians who received eat greens with roots beneath the soil. I’d usually flip to Goa, India’s smallest state, to flee the clatter of town and for a repair of meat and fish. Every time I arrived in Goa, I might be greeted by the identical taxi man. And once I reached the seaside, I’d be welcomed with hugs. It’s a splendidly heat place, in additional methods than one, and I might spend most of my time there studying to cook dinner the standard dishes, equivalent to sausage pao and sweet-and-sour fish curries.

This specific Goan meal attracts inspiration from a visit in January when, in my favorite restaurant nestled inland within the north of the state, we ate a surprising feast of various dishes, together with pork sausage fry, egg appam, and beetroot chutney. The centerpiece of the meal was a mean curry, a bitter and spicy fish dish like these they serve in toddy retailers, the south Indian ingesting institutions that serve alcoholic drinks comprised of palm timber. This might usually be served with mashed tapioca, however we’re serving it with vivid lemon rice, a refreshingly gentle thoran and a candy and bitter pineapple pickle.

Toddy store meen curry with hake and samphire

Should you can’t discover it, kokum – a bitter fruit generally utilized in Goa – will be susbstituted with tamarind. Halibut is a good-looking different to hake.

Serves 4
1 tbsp coconut oil
20 curry leaves
1 onion, sliced
1 tbsp every of garlic and ginger, crushed
2-3 inexperienced chillies, slit lengthways
3-4 items kokum
1 tbsp chilli powder
1 tbsp floor coriander
½ tsp floor turmeric
½ tsp floor fenugreek
250ml coconut milk
4 x 200g hake/halibut steaks
300g samphire
Salt

1 Warmth the coconut oil in a big pan, add the curry leaves after which the onions, and cook dinner till they’re comfortable and begin to brown.

2 Add the ginger, garlic, inexperienced chili and cook dinner over a medium warmth for one more couple of minutes. Then add the kokum, chili powder, coriander, turmeric, and fenugreek and stir for a minute or two to cook dinner the spices – take care to not burn them.

3 Subsequent add the coconut milk, carry to the boil, and season with salt. Gently put the fish items into the sauce for a couple of minutes, and cook dinner on a low warmth till simply cooked. Add the samphire to the sauce on the finish to warm by means of and serve.

Pineapple pickle

5 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp black mustard seeds
30 curry leaves
1 complete dried kashmiri chilli
1 small pineapple, peeled, cored, and reduce into 1cm cubes
1 tbsp dried kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp floor turmeric
4 tbsp coconut or white wine vinegar
70g jaggery or brown sugar
A pinch of salt

1 Warmth the oil in a big pan till scorching. Add the mustard seeds – they need to pop right away. Subsequently, add the curry leaves and 1 complete dried chili, then the chopped pineapple. Cook dinner for two minutes, then add the chili and turmeric powders.

2 As soon as the pineapple is almost cooked, add the vinegar, sugar, and salt. Cook dinner for 1-2 minutes on an excessive flame till the oil has separated from the spices and the pineapple is cooked, however nonetheless with a little bit chew. Take away from the pan and serve at room temperature.

Lemon rice

400g basmati rice
1 liter water
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp black mustard seeds
1 tbsp channa dal
20 recent curry leaves
1 tsp floor turmeric
Juice of three lemons
Salt, to style

1 Wash the rice in chilly working water till it’s not starchy and runs clear. Drain properly.

2 Carry 1 liter of water to the boil in a big saucepan, then add the rice and cook dinner, uncovered, for 8–10 minutes, or till the grains are cooked. Drain with a sieve.

3 Warmth the oil in a big pan to excessive warmth, add the mustard seeds and channa dal, and allow them to pop.

4 Subsequent, add the curry leaves and the turmeric and stir for 1 minute. Add the cooked rice, lemon juice, and salt, then gently combine collectively.

Hispi cabbage and carrot thoran

3 tbsp coconut oil
1 tbsp black mustard seeds
20 recent curry leaves
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried kashmiri chilies
30g recent root ginger, finely grated
½ tsp floor turmeric
1 tsp salt
½ tsp black pepper
250g hispi cabbage, finely shredded
2 carrots, diced
2 recent inexperienced chilies, slit in half
100g recent or frozen grated coconut

1 Warmth the oil in a big saucepan set over medium warmth. When scorching, add the mustard seeds adopted by the curry leaves, cumin seeds, and dried chilies. Stir for about 30 seconds, then add the ginger, turmeric, salt, and black pepper and fry for 30 seconds.

2 Stir within the cabbage, carrots, and inexperienced chili and cook dinner, coated, over medium warmth for 5-7 minutes, or till the greens are tender, including a little bit of water in the event that they begin to stick.

3 Stir within the coconut, warmth by means of for a minute, and serve.

  • Will Bowlby co-runs Kricket, a contemporary Indian restaurant in London’s Pop Brixton @kricketbrixton
  • This text was amended on 19 March 2016 to right an error within the first paragraph. An earlier model mistakenly said that the inhabitants of Bombay are predominantly Jain.

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